2020 Domaine de Vernus Chiroubles (1.5L)

91 Points from Robert Parker's Wine Advocate: "Attractive aromas of cassis, licorice, rich spices and sweet soil tones introduce the 2020 Chiroubles, a medium-bodied, supple and lively wine with a fleshy core of fruit, melting tannins and a saline finish. On paper, it's the most modest of the estate's crus, and yet it's also the most charming out of the gates.

Domaine de Vernus was created in 2019 by Frédéric Jametton, who'd been looking to start a winery for some time: initially interested in the south, he became convinced it was too hot and landed on the Beaujolais after discussions with his friend, Guillaume Rouget of Flagey-Echézeaux, who agreed to come on board as a consultant. Jametton has pieced together some 12.5 hectares of vineyards, acquired from fully 12 different proprietors, and is gradually restructuring parcels that are overly difficult to cultivate, with a view to more sustainable farming in the future. Vinification is conducted along somewhat Burgundian lines: some 70% of the grapes are destemmed (though Jametton stresses that there are no hard and fast rules), fermentation takes place in stainless steel and élevage is in recently used high-quality Burgundy barrels for some 10–11 months. That imparts a smoky, toasty patina to the wines that certainly lends them a Côte d'Orien accent, and purists who can't stomach oak in their Gamay will find it obtrusive; yet the quality of the barrels means that their influence is more classy than vulgar, and I found the results quite persuasive. Certainly, the style is quite singular and represents a new and interesting expression for the region. Bottling is done seriously, with high-quality corks from M. A. Silva, so I suspect the wines will also evolve with grace. I'm looking forward to following Domaine de Vernus over the years to come." (8/4/22)