2021 Decugnano Dei Barbi "Mare Antico" Orvieto Classico Superiore

93 Points Vinous: "Wickedly fresh and wafting up like a cool breeze off an alpine peak, the 2021 Orvieto Classico Superiore Mare Antico mixes crushed rock with raw almonds, hints of sage and ginger. This opens with a lovely inner sweetness contrasted by candied lime and salty minerals. It flows across the palate with ease, long and citrus-tinged. It tapers off structured and crisp, with a green apple crunch and residual acids keeping the mouth watering for more. The complexity here is off the charts, coupled with fantastic balance. The Mare Antico is beautiful today but with a bright future as well.

I’ve been singing the praises of Decugnano dei Barbi for the last few years. I hope that readers are listening. Orvieto has lost the respect of many consumers worldwide due to the ocean of large production, forgettable and gulpable wines produced in the region. Unfortunately, with that, a small amount of high-quality artisanal winemakers have suffered as well. The good news is that these producers continue to push the needle and deliver world-class wines at prices that can seem too good to be true. Decugnano dei Barbi is, without a doubt, one of those wineries. Enzo Barbi, the current generation owner and winemaker, opened a ten-vintage vertical of the Il Bianco, which today is labeled Mare Antico. It’s an Orvieto Classico Superiore that blends 55% Grechetto, 20% Vermentino, 20% Chardonnay and 5% Procanico and is matured in a combination of 5-10% barriques and stainless steel. In the last seven years, the amount of fermentation in barrique has been only 5%. I had often heard of Orvieto’s ability to mature gracefully, but this was the first time I witnessed it firsthand, with vintages going back to 2010. It was a fascinating experience and a testament to how well these wines can age, especially considering that current vintages retail between $25-$30 in the United States." (07/23)